"There's
not enough drugs in the world for my to enjoy listening to another
House of Pain remix."
1/23/18
- Arrive Managua, then Granada, Nicaragua.
1:30am.
Get off the pane. Car rental is closed. Wait while trying to sleep on
floor while people mop around me. Remind myself I have hammock. Set
hammock outside in parking lot. A few birds and diesel engines cut
through the warm weight of the air. Try and get some well needed rest
after a Chicago bender. Can't sleep. Night progresses. Diesel and
birds crescendo in tandem. In a few hours it's a war zone of tropical
birds and truck horns. Head inside to car rental desk. Car rental
desk tells me yes, it is only $6/d for a car, but it's an extra $13/d
with the mandatory insurance my credit card already offers. Cool. Get
some money from the arm and get on five cent chicken bus to city.
A
chicken bus is a school bus blinged out in the name of Jesus. Packed
chicken bus brings me to Managua chicken bus terminal. A tired lady
gives me a glass of fresh fruit and a slice of American cheese with
lettuce between white bread. A bus drives by with a painted on
windshield "Granada" which is where I've arbitrarily
decided to go so I chase it and hop on.
End
up at some shitty hostel in Granada called "Lost Souls"
(it's moto is "Get Lost, Get Fucked"). Dirty hippies
everywhere. Try to sleep but first have some beers at the bar. Meet
some decent people and talk about whatever Canada and whatever
seasonal scuba driving instructor job you have in Malayasia. Try to
sleep. I'm sweating to the plastic mattress. Before I can pass out a
guy walks in blowing what is literally a leaf blower modded out to
look like a steam punk cyborg arm cannon that's blowing white smoke
as a lady is yelling in Spanish "Get out fumigation!" I'm
so tired and pissed. Entire hostel is full of white smoke to kill
mosquitoes while hippies inhale it and don't care. I go for a walk
around a city where everything is in the street and for sale for
tourists. Go back to hostel and pass out a few hours.
Feel
better. Walk straight to the bar to see what's going on and find out
what people have been talking about a "tree house party."
Some dude tells me he's from Connecticut with a thick east coast
accent. I ask him if he's ever sick of people from around the world
misinterpreting his sarcasm as him being an asshole. He gets pissed
and almost throws a chair at me. I guess he thought I called him an
asshole? East coast, man. Go back to bed.
1/24/18
- San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua.
Wake.
Feel wayyy better. Go to breakfast. Dope rice, beans, eggs, salad,
plantain breakfast for $2. Go to cell phone lemonade stand. Some kid
tells me my unlock code doesn't work, but he has a trick. Get's my
phone to work. Fuck yah kid. Go to chicken bus station to a tourist
beach town where I'm chasing some hot Austrian tourist I've been
talking to on the internet for a while now. Sad - but what's a better
reason to go anywhere, I guess.
Arrive
San Juan del Sur. Nice quiet town with lots of bars and hostels and
white people. But chill as fuck and anything is better than my time
in Granada. Throw my shit off at the same hostel Austria is in and
run down to the beach to watch sunset over Pacific fishing boats
while watching some kids shred volley ball. Drink a beer. Everything
is truely great for a moment. I don't give a shit about anything. My
brain is quiet for the first time in months. Shit rules.
Walk
around and find little restaurant outside the bar strip. Buy a
lobster plate for $6. Some dude walks in with an entire fish he just
plucked from the sea. Retire to my clean hostel. Text Austria. She
says she's meeting a friend but will call me after. I go out. Drink
some beers. Talk to a nice French bartender who has been in this town
for seven months sailing a Catamaran. Old dude come up to bar from
Chicago and chats me up. This guy must love Jimmy Buffet. Hanging out
down here for months of the winter giving 0 fucks. Hanging with an
older Costa Rican lady who is loud and also gives 0 fucks. Shares
their fries with me. Awesome.
Night
is getting later. Bars are filling out and music is turning into
dated American club jams. Bros are hooting. Shitty cover bands in
places where I can't get to the bar. I'm old. Go to bed by 11:30
sober. Austria doesn't message me. What a dick. Pass out.
1/25/18
- Ometepe, Nicaragua
Wake.
Get out of town. Moving fast. Ometepe Island. Meet Finish girl while
cab drivers try to rip us off. Drink some beers waiting for boat.
Meet some others on the boat. End up on island. Drink with friends.
Get drunk. Play games. Some Canadian dude gives me a hammered scooter
ride to his place to drink rum. Hang with sixty year old Canadian guy
who won't stop talking about conspiracy theories but is still pretty
cool. Typical night. Pass out
1/26/18
- Ometepe, Nicaragua
Wake.
Rent scooters. Riding around island with friends. The island is
literally two volcanoes that emerged from a massive fresh water lake.
Lap around volcanoes. Drink some beers. Try to find a waterfall.
Waterfall is closed (typical). End up riding for hours on a dirt road
we should not have taken scooters on. Finish girl eats shit. Not many
tourists go to this side of the island. All locals who give big
smiles when you say hi. People live on this island there whole lives,
go to school and work on island, marry there island neighbors, die on
island. Wow. Cute French girl Anne rides with me on the back of my
scooter. End up in island city with socialists murals and red and
black flags everywhere. Fighting the fight against western
imperialism from a volcanic island. so weird.
Return
home. Exhausted. Laying in bed. I text Anne about going out to
reggaeton. I pass out about two seconds after I send text. She might
have been down to dance. Damn.
1/27/18
-Managua, Nicaragua
Wake.
The others go to hike a volcano with sixty year old conspiricy
theory. I pass. Text Anne to get breakfast with me before I leave
island. Meet for breakfast. I'm waiting on Anne to order and casually
ask when the boat leaves. Five minutes. I say goodbye to Anne and run
to the boat. Five hours of hungy boat and chicken bus and screaming
taxi drivers and cute little kids singing reggaeton. Heading to
capital city Managua.
Meeting
Nicaraguan yoga girl I met on Tinder. Saturday night. Whether she is
cool or not, goal is to make her take me to the reggaeton club. Walk
around trying to find a private room for myself "just in case."
I'm unable to find a cheap room. Spend $25 on a private room at a
hostel where the beds are $9. I move the two beds together "just
in case" and this "just in case" is just really
depressing.
Meet
girl at food truck rally type place. Hip. She is telling me about ice
cream. This chick is Nicaragua rich. I'm already bored. We go to rock
show at bar venue. Pretty rad band for free. I ask about salsa
reggaeton pop. She takes me to the greatest club of my life called
(don't have phone on me, look up later). Mix of salsa reggaeton and
pop. Nicaraguans going cray on dance floor. We shaking booty and
getting low and slow dancy and making out. My favorite part is some
old guy spinning his wife all over the place stops to look at me and
look at her and take a second and only says "You are a gringo"
and I say "I am a gringo" and he fist bumps me. We leave
club while continue to make out. I try to convince her to stay in my
"just in case" room and she tells me she can't... but next
weekend she is down to go on a vacay with me. Weekend girlfriend?
I'll take it. Drops me off at hostel and I fall into door guy who
catches me. Pass out.
1/28/18
- Jinquiste, Nicaragua
Wake.
This city is great at night but pretty shitty in the day. Head to
beach. Five hours of chicken bus screaming lying taxi drivers and
cute kids singing reggaeton. Walk down quiet dirt road bordered with
sleeping pigs. Arrive Ruamoko Hostel. Outdoor beach hut bamboo thatch
roof vibe with pool. Meet one of the hostel owners Pete. He checks me
in half drunk and listening to Cock Sparer. He tells me about he
loves it down here but hates the music and that everyone is on a
booze cruise so he can listen to whatever he wants. I immediatly
start drinking and listening to punk with him. Go for a tipsy walk to
beach for tide pools and sunset. Return and booze cruise returns.
It's almost entirely wasted girls who are literally rolling around on
the ground. I hurry to catch up (drinking). I talk to some English
girl for a while who thinks Colorado is in Canada. I talk to German
girl for a while but don't know how to suggest banging around the
hostel so get everyone to play cardbord instead. Keep drinking.
Everyone is gone but me and punk dude who is telling me he wants to
kill himself. Keep getting free beers from him. Keep drinking. We are
sad weird dudes. Pass out.
1/29/18
- 1/31/18 - Jinquiste, Nicaragua
Wake.
Won't put much time into writing when nothing is really happening.
Much chilling. Much drinking. Walk the beach. Meet some honkies. Play
lots of games. It's fun. Try surfing - suck. Stay for huge full moon
party. Bribe some guy for a bottle of tequila at a bar. Eat adderall
and stay up all night drinking and being weird and wandering around
watching bros destroy culture to shitty music. This gringo shit can
be fun but getting old. Pass out.
2/1/18
- Managua, Nicaragua
Wake.
Two hours sleep. Hungover isn't the word. I try to pay for a coffee
and my hands are shaking too much. Everyone is dead. Leave hostel
without paying for about half of my drinks and three of my four
nights because Pete the trump supporting Slovakian who gets a free
pass to be drunk behind the bar all day and hit on twenty year olds
because he is an "investor" has no idea how to do more than
open a fridge nevermind run a business. Sit at chicken bus stop for
two hours while talking to some cool locals from tiny town. Board
chicken bus with the greatest music videos I've ever seen.
Arrive
Managua. Get hostel. Meeting up with another Nicaraguan yoga
instructor from Tinder Laura. Almost don't go because I'm so
exhausted. She brings her Belgian friend and her friend's Nicaraguan
boyfriend to bar. We talk about booze, drugs, music, gender non
comformity, etc etc. Rad funny people who like good music and are
doing good stuff for the world. My people. Laura told me she doesn't
party and she is definitly high and drunk and laughing histerically
at everything. Real cute. I'm touching her leg and trying to be more
"obvious" about trying to have sex with somebody which is
what I've been told I'm bad at. After maybe only an hour and a half
at the bar we walk away while she tells me about her protest not to
live with her parents and move into her own place and about how her
mother told her it's okay not to get married and about how she
doesn't believe in marriage or God. Progression in Nicaragua.
Awesome. As she talks about it she takes me past my turn off and
casually takes me to her new place. The leg thing worked? Bang. I lay
next to her and feel real weird and empty after. Not usual. Don't
know why. Pass out.
2/2/18
- Leon, Nicaragua
Wake
Managua at Laura's at 5:30am because she needs to go teach yoga. Go
back to hostel and try to sleep. Wake again. My dick literally hurts
and has friction burn from drunk adderall jerking off at the party
and a loose condom. Awesome. Text Laura about it which I'm still not
sure if was the best idea. Tell her I'm leaving to take a break and
let my dick heal at a lagoon outside of town and we can't hang this
weekend. Get to the bus station and realize everything is sold out
around the lagoon. Sit there for a long time contemplating my life
and have a slight existential crisis to bus horns because I'm still
pretty sleepless. Take bus to the North - Leon.
Check
into nice quiet hostel. Have an expensive vegetarian dinner by
myself. Pass out by 11pm on a Friday night.
2/3/18
- Leon, Nicaragua
Wake.
Have some breakfast. Type this thing a week ago. Do some research on
where to go to let my dick heal. Camile from last weekend arrives. I
have bought a private room for the two of us. Hit the town.
Revolution
Museum. X-Sandinista gives us a full guided tour of the museum (which
is really just a bunch of photos in an old shitty building - tight)
while Camile translates. Dude talks about how the United States tried
to fuck Nicaragua in the 20's with the election of the original
Somosa (typical shitty dictator) and again in the 60's and 70's with
his son (another typical shitty dictator.) Dude has us walk across
the shittiest roof ever that I was so sure I was going to fall
through while showing us volcanoes. Dude talks about how he was
tortured for twenty two days straight and still didn't talk. I've
never seen such a perky lively dude so stoked on hating the United
States.
Up
next is the Cathedral where everyone goes and walks on the roof. To
my surprise, this isn't just a gringo thing, and the Nicaraguans I
talked to were pretty stoked on paying money to walk a roof as well.
Large white domes catch the sinking sun over the city and is very
pretty. Camile has me take a photo shoot of her doing yoga poses - to
which I scoff - to which I learn that the cliche of doing yoga poses
in pretty places and putting it on Colorado Tinder isn't a thing in
Nicargua yet.
Next
is a cafe for beers with trite conversation followed by a public
dance troop coreographed to reggaeton and pop songs. We go to another
bar and the conversation is about turning off lights when you're done
with them and me playing games she can't figure out and I pour myself
extra of the bottle of the rum we are sharing while she is in the
bathroom to get through it. We go to another bar, meet some basic
gringa friends I find boring and she finds facinating, but no blame
on her because my life is basic gringa friends. We dance a bit,
retire back to room, bang, pass out.
2/4/18
- Esteli, Nicaragua
Wake.
Bang. Rush to free breakfast. Catch a cab to bus station. She goes
home while I go north to a city called Estli. Arrive Esteli. Check
into $6 private room (so cheap). Trying to figure out how to go to
Somoto Canyon - beautiful river with cliff jumping even further
north. Hear some girl asking reception about it outside my door.
Stick my head out and tell her I'm coming with her. I reluctantly
sign up for a tour with her ("There's no other way"
everyone always says, and I end up believing.) Walk downtown past a
church with heavy rock drums and people dancing. Walk past a fire
station with a loud dance party blasting 80's pop. Have a beer in a
square packed with families at night. Cool city. Meet English girl
Maxine from hotel at restaurant/bar Cafe Luz. Three dollar veggie
burgers - do recommend. She turns out to be a very conservative, by
the books, travel type - taking Spanish classes and doing tours. Ask
her if she wants to do acid on the tour tomorrow anyway. No? Okay.
Have a beer. Walk back to hotel. Pass out.
2/5/18
- Somoto Canyon, Nicaragua
Wake
6am. Drag myself to bus station. I can't get up this early. I'm so
exhausted. Plow some gallopinto into my face and throw myself on a
school bus. Sort of sleep with my head swinging back and forth
between the window and Maxine. Picked up by tour guides. Bring us to
River. Walk us around river while tourists are excited to jump off
tiny rocks. Place is beautiful but I can't get over how fucking lame
these people are. Open your mind. They're good people. Why are you
such a dick. I walk around trying to find pretty rocks until there is
a good size cliff jump and it's much fun. Very pretty. End tour. Back
to Esteli. Pass out.
2/6/18
- Matagalpa, Nicaragua
Wake.
Bus to Matagalpa. I'm tired and in a shit mood for some reason. Try
to catch bus to Pinas Blancas. Missed last bus by twenty minutes.
Find nice hostel. Walk forever with bag through city. Arrive
beautiful garden eco hostel that's empty and outside of town. Get
depressed. I'm such a piece of shit. Take a nap because my life is
hard. Wake. Go downtown and get sort of drunk by myself at some
restaurant and some empty bar. Band starts and plays some US cover.
Leave immediately back to hostel. Pass out.
2/7/18
- Penas Blancas, Nicaragua
Wake.
Was going to rent dirt bike but it's raining and I don't actually
know how to ride a dirt bike. Lonnggg rainy bus ride. Arrive Penas Blancas. Beautiful middle of nowhere eco lodge. Set up hammock by
lovely waterfall that's just a five minute walk from room. Read Lao
Tzu and try to get deep. Take a sunset walk with blood orange
backdrop outlining black leaves. Eat some pasta. Pass out by 9pm.
2/8/18
- Penas Blancas, Nicaragua
Wake
7am. Eat pancake with honey made there and coffee made there. Sit
next to river with notebook and start writing. Trying to figure out
life. Trying to figure out what to do next. I came on this trip
because at home my mind is blocked. Start jotting notes (see diamond
notebook). Map out my life in chapters – growing up, highschool
punk, hating college, Hammer Time!, DIY shows, touring Elway, love,
backpacking, and now - ??? Things that made these chapters great –
creativity, social, and positive impact. Need to take these things
and figure out what's next. Start a business in Colombia? Develop the
Denver Tool Library? Something totally different? Hm...
Waiting
for tour to waterfall. I hate tours. Ask if it's really all that hard
to get to. He now says - no. Dick. I grab some boots and head up.
Thirty minute hike through little waterfalls, huge trees, and thick
wet brush. Get to Rainbow Falls. Massive waterfall and I'm all alone.
Tear up a bit. Hang with waterfall for an hour while getting sprayed
and waiting for sun to hit it just right so it makes a rainbow. It
makes a double rainbow. Head back down. Set up hammock by same
waterfall. Lay and listen and stare through the jungle cannopy onto
the sky.
Check
out and give homeboy my raincoat and he's stoked. Catch bus. Arrive
back in Matagalpa. Check into shitty hostel. Grab some beers at
another almost empty bar. Pass out.
2/9/18
– Matagalpa & Managua, Nicaragua
Wake.
Head for hike to Cerro Apante – a big cross on a big hill that
overlooks the city. Get lost in a cool hilly barrio. Some kid shows
me a secret back trail. Real steep slippery exhausting path. Make
vista. Hang with Virgin Marry and some angel for a bit. Head down.
Eat overpriced Mexican with nice people who explain how their town is
just developing tourism. Grab bus for capital Managua.
Arrive
Managua. Hang at hostel for a bit before I meet up with Laura. We
make pasta with her roommate from England who is doing a food
collection type program. After dinner she is going with friends to
drum circle. We bang real quick and she is running out the door for
her friend while trying to kick me out while I am trying to get a
condom off my dick. Fun giddy high school shit. We meet up again later
and pass out ar hers.
2/10/18
– Laguna de Apoyo, Nicaragua
Wake
at 5:30am. She goes to teach yoga. I pass out. Wake again to her at
9:30am. We had a plan to leave to the lagoon right away but have sex
for forever instead. Leave around noon. Arrive lagoon. Huge beautiful
volcano crater filled in with water and surrounded by little not too
fancy resorts. Check into airbnb around 2pm. The place is an old
hotel of sorts that's now just a handful of airbnbs. It was the
cheapest I could find so it's missing a nice beach and it's sort of a
weird barbed wire fenced in area... not the nicest but not the worst.
Eat
acid. Rent kayaks. Kayak around. I'm starting to go crazy while she
feels nothing. I'm laying on my back shouting at the sky. Get back to
airbnb. I get out of kayak and finally stop moving for a second in
the water and everything is scribbles and patterns. I'm totally
helpless with some stranger who I can't figure out if she feels
anything or not. Go back into room. Crazy acid sex for what seems
like eternity. At one point while my face is in her pussy my brain
starts narrating story lines with different characters all having to
do with eating her pussy. Absolutely I cannot explain this. Take a
break and it's dark. Head out to lay in hammocks but tons of bugs.
Sit on concrete platform and look out over dusk lagoon - totally
incredible, but feel totally uncomfortable because she is having a
hard time chilling and I can't figure out what she wants and I'm
definitely unable to form a complete sentence. Go back to room. She is
incredibly hungry. I can't fathom eating. There is no food. A lot of
shit happens that I still can't really explain and she gets the host
dude to bring us back what is maybe the grossest plate of food I've
ever eaten. There is a piece of fried cheese that almost makes vomit
my entire being. She is relatively calm again and I can go back to
staring at grass. Other people and environment is EVERYTHING when it
comes to acid...
Have
more sex for a while. It's great. There's nothing else to do. Finally
I'm coming down a bit by 10pm. I can make complete thoughts and
sentences. She smokes some weed and gets into some weird head stuff
and rolls over and passes out. I stare out the window for hours and
finally pass out.
2/11/18
– Laguna de Apoyo, Nicaragua
Wake.
Sweet sweet almost sobriety. Bang forever. Take kayaks to resort with
breakfast. Order all of the food and smoothies and coffee. Amazing.
Lay in hammock for a while and have real conversations. Talk about
birds and travel and tourism. Talk about the difference between
successful touristic cities – ones where money comes in and fancy
places open up and both locals and tourists can participate there –
vs shitty touristic cities – where there's just a tourist center
and then bold segregation and borders where people don't pass (Leon
vs Granada). Slowly make our way to the bus. Get back to her house.
Watch Netflix and bang forever. This might have sadly been one of my
favorite parts of Nicaragua – or maybe just a well needed lazy rest
after 3 weeks of running. Say a sad goodbye. Grab cab to airport at
midnight.


































































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